Pour That Wall!Posted: April 2, 2011
Rebar is all tied and the rusting steel strips are scattered out about where they go.
The first thing a carpenter does is set up saw horses and start building forms.
I’ve layed out two lines, one is face-of-concrete and the other is an offset line to be able to plumb the forms. The 2×4’s nailed down to the footing are what holds the forms in place.
The first form in nailed in place. This retainer wall is two long curves. Even though it’s faceted, it’ll look like a smooth curve. Notice the retainer wall on the other side of the driveway. This will match.
Close-up on the strip embed and snap-ties. The snap-ties hold the forms at a preset space, 12″ here. The strip embeds are fastened to the forms with 1/4″ bolts. After pouring, I’ll back the bolts out. The nut stays behind and the strip embed will be flush with the face-of-concrete. Notice the Nelson Stud at the top of the embed. That’s what holds the embed to the concrete.
Ready for the “button-up” side.
These are the 4″ step forms. Also, you can see the cleats I use to keep the forms flush.
All ready to pour. These plywood “diverters” will help keep the ready-mix going into the wall form instead of on the ground. The turnbuckle/2×4 combinations will be fine-tuned immediately after the pour to make sure nothing moved out of plumb.
I had to help the mud down the chute with my rubber-gloved hand. Roger is pulling mud out of the chute end with a shovel. We had to really work to make this pour. If the wall forms had been any higher, I would have had to hire a concrete pump, which would have added about $500 to the cost.